An excellent example of a Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, this piece is distinguished by its unusual French date indications. The complication has become a signature of Dubuis’ early work, and bears many of the hallmarks of his time at Patek Philippe.

The history of Roger Dubuis is rich and complex, as Dubuis started his career in the 1950s working for Longines, before moving on to Patek Philippe’s complications department, before breaking away to start his own workshop in the ‘80s. Later on, in 1995, Dubuis would launch his eponymous brand with the help of businessman Carlos Dias.

According to Dubuis himself, he began work on this complication in the late 1980s – a perpetual calendar module with retrograde displays. For several years, Roger Dubuis worked on the complication with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, founder of respective complications specialist Agenhor. This was first developed for Harry Winston, who announced their own version of the Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar at Baselworld, in 1989. It was the first double retrograde perpetual calendar, and Roger Dubuis later made the same perpetual module the signature complication of his brand.

In addition to the highly stylised dial layout, the piece is further distinguished by the days, which are rendered in French – making this an especially rare variation on Dubuis’ signature complication. Two references to Dubuis’ past work with Patek Philippe will not escape the eye of the discerning collector. The first is the flared finish of the pushers that invoke the Patek Philippe reference 1463 "Tasti Tondi", while the second is the use of the Lemania 2310, a calibre shared by Dubuis’ movement, the calibre RD 5632, and the Patek Philippe reference 3970, a perpetual calendar piece that also integrates a chronograph function.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Roger Dubuis Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronograph will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

This Roger Dubuis Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks consistent with light wear over time. The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.